Postcard from Jakarta

On more than several occasions when I’ve happened to be in conversation about life in Jakarta, the phrase "macet, macet, macet" comes up as an exclamation of frustration about the city's notorious traffic jams. So, on arrival at Soekarno–Hatta International Airport (also known as CGK Aiport), I imagined the hours that would be spent crawling along the 32-kilometre journey into South Jakarta. 

Adding to my concerns, only days before my arrival Mount Anak Krakatau had erupted, sending volcanic ash across the region. News articles reported more than 340,000 travellers had been affected and nearly 3,000 flights cancelled I wondered if I might become part of that disruption and the ensuing traffic chaos.  

As it turned out, I need not have worried. 

The role of digital technology has been smoothing out many of these problems over recent years. We’re all used to completing digital arrival cards, receiving a QR code on our smartphone and doing away with paper forms. At CGK Airport, I noted automated immigration e-gates had recently been installed to help speed up entry, while customs clearance has also been similarly streamlined. After collecting their luggage, travellers simply scan their QR code and step out into Jakarta's 30-degree heat and humidity. 

 If you do not have someone meeting you at the airport, taking a taxi into the city is easy. Better still, do as the locals do and download a ride-hailing app such as Grab, Gojek or Bluebird.   

Everywhere you look are the green jackets of Grab and Gojek drivers, most of them on scooters and motorbikes. Image Credit: James To

These apps tell you exactly how long your journey will take and what it will cost. There is an initial moment of sticker shock when prices appear in Indonesian rupiah - often in the hundreds of thousands; but once you convert them to New Zealand dollars (conveniently divide by 10000) the fares are remarkably affordable. Short trips of five to seven kilometres can cost as little as NZ$1 to NZ$5, while a journey to or from the airport typically ranges from NZ$30 to NZ$35. 

It is on the streets of Jakarta where the city's scale becomes most apparent. Everywhere you look are the green jackets of Grab and Gojek drivers, most of them on scooters and motorbikes weaving through traffic as they collect and deliver meals, groceries and parcels. The gig economy – backed by digital architecture - alongside millions of small traders and family-run businesses, appears to be the engine of consumption and economic activity across Jakarta and beyond. 

The energy powering that activity comes in many forms: electricity, gas, petrol and good old-fashioned human effort. Walk down almost any street and you will see a maze of overhead cables, portable gas cylinders fuelling roadside food stalls, and vendors fiercely fanning charcoal fires beneath skewers of sizzling beef sate sapi. Food carts are everywhere, offering everything from bami goreng fried noodles, ayam spesial chicken dishes to iced desserts. One thing that stands out is the abundance of inexpensive, single-use consumer goods. Tiny foil packets of snacks and sweets hang from stalls in colourful displays, offering just enough for a bite or two. Cost-of-living pressures certainly exist, but many everyday purchases remain affordable. Wicked Wings, for example, were less than NZ$1 each. 

Food carts are everywhere, offering everything from bami goreng fried noodles, ayam spesial chicken dishes to iced desserts. Photo: James To

And once again, technology is never far away. While cash is still accepted, digital payments have become increasingly commonplace. The QR code that greeted travellers at the airport reappears throughout daily life. Indonesia's QRIS payment system allows customers to pay almost anywhere by simply scanning a code with their smartphone. From shopping centres to tiny roadside carts, vendors display QRIS stickers or placards ready for instant payment.  

The QR code that greeted travellers at the airport reappears throughout daily life. Photo: James To

For me, this is one of the most fascinating lessons Jakarta offers. Faced with the challenges of managing a population measured in the tens of millions, the city has embraced practical digital innovation to simplify everyday life. Technology alone cannot solve every urban challenge, but Jakarta demonstrates how accessible, user-friendly solutions can help make a megacity more connected, efficient and resilient to keep one of the world's largest urban populations moving forward. 

Perhaps that’s why I did not hear anyone uttering macet macet macet during my time in Jakarta at all on this visit.

-Asia Media Centre