Pakistan: After Seven Years Away

New Zealand being a multi-cultural nation, you often are faced with the question, “Where are you from?” Hearing my answer to this question, the other party usually responds with one of two possible comments:

“Oh! Pakistan? The Northern Areas there are absolutely gorgeous.”

“Oh, Pakistan? It sounds like a lovely place but isn’t it quite unsafe?”

Naturally, when I was making plans to travel to my home country after seven long years of living abroad, I was quite curious to know what my experience would be like.

Even though I spent majority of my childhood in Pakistan and moved to New Zealand at the age of sixteen, the way you view the world significantly changes as you transition from adolescence to adulthood and I was no exception to this.

I vividly remember the first morning we landed in the commercial capital Karachi; even with the advent of the winter season, we were greeted with a hot humid air, a drastic change in environment to what we were accustomed.

However, disregarding the heat and the extreme case of mismanagement that we encountered at the airport (a story for another time) I simply could not wait to step out of the four walls of the congested airport and indulge in the experiences that awaited me.

The one thing I probably miss most about Karachi, is how loud it was. Whenever my family and I went out, I was more excited about being on the road rather than getting to the actual destination which sounded odd to a lot of people there (and will most likely sound so to you too).

It was something about how alive the city felt on the streets, especially during the night.

You could witness so many events unfolding before your eyes all at once – people jaywalking with no fear for their lives, colorful rickshaws and trucks driving past as they choked out smoke from behind, families of over 5 and 6 all huddled on one motorcycle, fruit vendors pushing their carts down the road chanting what fresh fruits and vegetables they had available and at what price.

It was an utterly chaotic sight yet so beautiful at the same time. If there is any other place in the world where you can feel as if you are a tiny part of a an immensely complex system, it would be on the streets of Karachi.

There were also some other interesting sights that you could observe while you were on the move.

For example, I spotted a few electric buses, pet hospitals and most surprising of them all – more female drivers on the streets of Karachi than I had ever seen before!

The latter had caught me off guard and made me feel so proud that I would suppress the urge to say, “You go girl!” to every female driver I saw.

Nonetheless, these sights were a testament to the fact that Karachi truly had changed in the span of seven years; some of these changes undoubtedly being positive.

 When it comes to any Asian city, you simply can’t go without talking about the food and Karachi’s food scene is indeed on a whole other level of delicious. I wasted no opportunity to indulge in everything I had been craving for in the past few years.

Here are some real favourites: 

1) Chaat

From a family of savoury snacks, chaat is a popular street food dish in Pakistan with similar variations also found in other parts of South Asia.

Pakistani chaats usually comprise a mixture of chickpeas, raw onions, pieces of potato, sweet yoghurt and crisps from Samosas (chana papdi). You can easily find chaat in any food stall or restaurant you stumble across in Karachi; however, a personal favorite spot is ‘Flamingo Juice & Chat’ in Clifton district.

2) Falooda

Another favorite – a cold dessert made with vermicelli, often served with ice cream and milkshake (all in the same glass), topped with nuts and jelly. The flavour of the falooda pictured is strawberry but there are options for other flavours as well. Although faloodas are usually best enjoyed in the blazing summer heat of Pakistan, winters are no less of a good time to savor its sweetness.

 3) Bun Kebab

If there is one thing I ate the most during my time in Karachi, it was the bun kebabs from KDA Market in Gulshan-e-Iqbal. The most iconic of all street foods in Karachi, your food tour is utterly incomplete if you miss the opportunity to try this delectable snack.

In a typical bun kebab you could find egg, potato, and vegetables with ketchup layering, sandwiched between two grilled bun patties.

The recipe may change from one place to another. For example, some bun kebabs may also contain meat. However, I always went for that one food stand at KDA Market, ordering the eggless bun kebab on every visit. 

Even with all the good memories this trip left me with, there were some instances where I was confronted with the harsh realities facing my home country.

I once came across a young child, hardly five or six years of age, around Dolmen Mall at Tariq Road. She was out on the streets, during the night, begging from strangers. My heart simply sank at the sight of her and I did my best to fight back the tears. That moment served as a wake-up call, forcing me realise that not all was well underneath the surface in Pakistan's commercial capital.

Despite the numerous problems knocking at the country's doorstep, one thing I admire most about Pakistanis is that they find happiness in the little things.

After a long hard day at work, parents won’t hesitate to take their children for a night out. Despite the many societal pressures imposed on women, they could take a break from reality by flocking to malls, shopping for the latest accessories and clothing. Disregarding their financial hardships, families can find great pleasure in inviting guests over with utmost hospitality.

Despite its reputation of being a poor country, the people of Pakistan are undoubtedly rich at heart.

When you greet  Pakistanis with  “How are you?”, they will most likely respond with “Alhumdulillah” (a statement of gratitude to God).

You won’t hear them complain about their own troubles and dismays, but they will express sadness over the current state of the country.

A question I was asked quite frequently as someone who has been away from home for quite some time was: “Hasn’t Pakistan gotten worse?”

In responding to this question, you could either agree with this statement or, if you are anything like me, would deny it outright.

Because even though Pakistan is in 2024 a long way from getting things right, more females in the workforce, more women drivers on Karachi’s streets, and the emergence of electric vehicles  are definitely signs that we are doing some things right.

Pakistan's EV policy is just one example, and its an ambitious plan designed to have EV's as 30 percent of the vehicle market  by 2030, and 90 percent by 2040. The government is now offering lucrative investment opportunities for vehicle manufacturers, assemblers, and suppliers.

On the streets of Karachi, that can only be seen as good news. 

+ All images supplied + 

- Asia Media Centre